Bordeaux As A Foodie Break 21 Jun 2010
Bordeaux As A Foodie Break

Bordeaux

Good Food Would Choose Bordeaux (UK advertising campaign mid 2010)

As the world's wine capital, you'd expect nothing less than world-class cooking, and the famous region has long been able to draw talent from France (not to mention the rest of the world) - as well as its pick of excellent raw materials. That Bordeaux�s culinary and vinous heritage go hand-in-hand is evident in nearly every local speciality.

Local Gastronomy Many of the Bordeaux specialities are available year-round, like the special beef from Bazas, served simply grilled or barbecued over the sarments (remnants of pruned vines); anything with sauce bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, brown stock and shallots); lamproie � la Bordelaise � lamprey eel cooked in red wine; caviar d'Aquitaine from Gironde estuary sturgeon; confit d'oie (potted preserved goose) and of course foie gras. The foie gras in Bordeaux is more often duck, rather than goose liver. And then there's Tome d'Aquitaine, a Sauternes-kissed aged goat's cheese � followed by the ubiquitous and near mythical canel�s � little cakes once made from the egg yolks left over after winemakers used the whites to clarify their wines.

Others are seasonal, and eagerly awaited - such as the rare Pauillac salt- marsh lamb, which grazes on M�doc marshes and grape vines after the harvest. Jean Luc Rochas, chef of the Cordeillan-Bages restaurant, offers a very modern take on the traditional product. Tel: +33 (0)5 56 59 24 www.cordeillanbages.com

There's also palombe (wood pigeon) served in red wine; c�pes (aka porcini or boletus), slowly saut�ed in oil with garlic and parsley � a must for mushroom lovers; and oysters � especially the local gravette. Likewise, there are artichokes from Macau, on M�doc's southern peninsula, served boiled with melted cheese and washed down with red wine (!) or, more salubrious but definitely less fun, as a post-indulgence liver-cleansing tonic.

And in the late summer the floral, fragrant Comice pears.

Foodie Events Spring brings the famous Blaye asparagus: perfect for the softer-focus Sauvignon-S�millon blended fresh Bordeaux white wines, it is served steamed with simple vinaigrette or chopped hard-boiled eggs.

Visitors can sample such delicacies and many, many others at the numerous food-related events held throughout the region each year.

In 2010 the 11th annual asparagus festival in Etauliers took place on 24-25 April. Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 42 61 99, www.lafetedelasperge.com.

The local restaurateurs in and around Blaye take up the seasonal cause with menus dedicated to the beloved white, green and even purple spears.

Au Sarment, 50 rue de La Lande, 33240 Saint Gervais Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 43 44 73, www.au-sarment.com Le Pr�mayac, 27 rue du Pr�mayac, 33390 Blaye Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 42 19 57, www.restaurant-lepremayac.com L'Auberge du Porche, 5 rue Ernest Regnier, 33390 Blaye Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 42 22 69, www.auberge-du-porche.com Le P�tit Canon, In the Citadel itself, 33390 Blaye Tel: +33 (0) 9 51 19 11 85, Email leptitcanon@gmail.com

Fishy Tales What could be better than fish and chips? Why, cod in all its glory, of course, at the Cod Festival in B�gles, where visitors will find cod-themed concerts, exhibitions, street theatre parades and tastings. 28th-30th May in 2010. For more information, contact the B�gles Town Hall, 77 rue Calixte Camelle, 33130 B�gles Tel: +33 (0)5 56 49 95 94, www.mairie-begles.fr/morue

The Arcachon Bay is the capital of oyster farming in the area and has seven ports, an oyster museum and 160 oyster farmers. The farmers are happy to welcome customers to their wooden huts or you can take a boat tour. Every August the Larros en F�te - Foire aux Hu�tres oyster festival takes place at Maison de l�Huitre (Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 66 23 71) and the Gujan-Mestras en F�tes runs from the 5th-8th August. Once common in the Gironde Estuary, trout and sturgeon are now farmed near Arcachon and produce the luxurious Caviar d�Aquitaine.

Let�s Cook Budding chefs can flaunt their stuff at France's answer to Master Chef, the Amateur Cooking Championships (Le Championnat de France de Cuisine Amateur). Anyone with some chutzpah will be given a basket of surprise ingredients and an hour to whip up an original recipe � winners will go on to the national semi-finals in Paris at the end of the year. www.ffcuisineamateur.org

There are many other ookery classes throughout the Bordeaux region including le Chapon Fin (www.chapon-fin.com) and Atelier des Chefs (www.atelierdeschefs.com), the latter has a very hands-on, cheap and cheerful approach.

For something a bit more formal, the Quai des Saveurs cookery school offers a range of cookery courses in a spacious kitchen for lovers of good food. Local products are honoured in traditional recipes but more exotic dishes are also demonstrated to show off the richness of flavours. Quai des Saveurs, 16 Quai des Chartrons 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 52 94 22, - www.quai-des-saveurs.com

Likewise, Jean-Luc Rocha, who is now the head chef at the Michelin two- starred Cordeillan-Bages just outside Pauillac, also offers cookery courses. Ch�teau Cordeillan-Bages, Route des Ch�teaux, 33250 Pauillac Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 59 24 24, www.cordeillanbages.com

F�te le Vin Although only a few years old, Bordeaux F�te le Vin (Bordeaux Celebrates Wine) has quickly taken root as a must-not-miss Left Bank summer event. Tastings, parades, banquets and stalls selling regional delicacies originate in Bordeaux's main square. The fun extends along the Garonne riverbank via a 2km "wine road", where pavilions will pour wines from all appellations. Out in the vineyards visitors will be guided through the winemaking processes of the ch�teaux as well as the many inextricable links between food, wine and culture in this region. 24th-27th June 2010. Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 00 66 00, www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com

Open Doors � Portes Ouvertes Saint Emilion, Lussac and Puisseguin usually open the wine-tasting season with a weekend of events at the beginning of May (www.vins-saint- emilion.com) followed by the C�tes de Bourg, where over 100 ch�teaux open their doors (www.cotes-de-bourg.com).

June opens with the Weekend des Grands Amateurs (Wine lovers weekend), the chance to meet the people behind the wine through a series of sense- overloading Grand Cru tastings and dinners with the owners of top ch�teaux. There are also visits to domaines in the M�doc, Saint Emilion, Graves and Sauternes. Contact the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, 10 cours du XXX juillet, 33000 Bordeaux Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 42 75 85, www.wga-ugcb.com

The Tourist Office offers a full-day (French and English) guided coach tour leaving from Bordeaux called "A gourmet trail" every Tuesday from 18th May until 26th October in 2010. It is an exclusive tour of four �great growths� in Margaux to taste the wines and culinary delights of one of the most famous appellations in the M�doc. The itinerary includes the history of the Margaux appellation and the 1885 classification at Ch�teau Prieur�- Lichine, followed by the lessons of terroir at Ch�teau Rauzan-Gassies. Lunch at the restaurant �Le Savoie� precedes a talk on grape varieties and the art of blending at Ch�teau La Tour de Bessan and then winemaking and wine as a family trade at Ch�teau Kirwan. 9 :30am-6 :00pm, 90�/person (guide, transport, visits, tasting and lunch included). www@bordeaux- tourisme.com

Getting around in Bordeaux The centre of Bordeaux is largely pedestrianised and easy to walk around. The tram system is very efficient and simple to navigate, taking in all the main city highlights. There is also a new company who will pedal you around in glossy covered three wheeler bikes. www.cyclopolitain.com/Bordeaux/cyclo/index.html

The Tourist Office is in the city centre to provide maps and guides. Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 00 66 00, www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

Drinking Bar � Vin: This is a wonderful bar, based at the CIVB (The Bordeaux Wine Council) offices in the city centre (opposite the tourist office) where wines from all areas of Bordeaux can be tasted by the glass, accompanied by lovely plates of cheese and charcuterie. Visit www.bordeaux.com and click on �the wine bar� to see their full list. The Ecole du Vin is situated on the floor above the Bar. 3, cours du XXX juillet Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 00 43 47, www.bordeaux.com/Ecole-Du-Vin

Max Bordeaux: A funky, new, central venue offering a selection of 48 top Bordeaux wines by the glass. The main objective of Max Bordeaux is to show the second wines produced by some of region�s most prestigious ch�teaux. They also have all of the First Growths available for a once-in-a-lifetime horizontal tasting. All wines are available for purchase at competitive rates and you can take bottles bought at the Wine Gallery and drink them with your meal at the Caf� de l�Opera without paying corkage. 14 Cours de l'Intendance. Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 29 23 81, www.maxbordeaux.com

The Ice Room: Open since October 2009, Bordeaux has the largest ice bar in Europe. The space includes a modern brasserie restaurant and an ice bar chilled to -10 degrees centigrade. A coat and gloves are available to borrow since a chilly thrill is guaranteed..! Hangar 19 - Quai des Marques Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 00 10 15, www.iceroom.fr

Chez Pompon: Is a good place for an aperitif or �apero� as they call it in Bordeaux. 4 Cours de Verdun Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 79 13 13

Eating in Bordeaux City Le Chapon Fin: This is grown up food from the talented young chef Nicolas Frion who also hosts a cookery school here. 5 Rue Montesquieu Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 79 10 10, www.chapon-fin.com.

La Tupina: Traditional food from the region, but make sure you are really hungry before going! 6, rue Porte de la Monnaie Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 91 56 37. www.latupina.com Following Chef Jean-Pierre Xiradakis� other ventures, Le Comestible and Le Bar Cave in the same street, he is planning to open a fish and seafood restaurant in autumn 2010.

L�Estaquade: This is a glasshouse on stilts on the right bank of the river Garonne with a spectacular view of the city. Quais de Queyries Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 54 02 50, www.lestaquade.com

Chez Greg: A menu of varied international food with a modern vibe. Meat is grilled on an open fire and there is a terrace on the roof top for summer. Watch out, the bright young things of Bordeaux descend at weekends (Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights) and the DJ slowly pumps up the volume from 11pm onwards. Le Grand Theatre, 29 Rue Esprit des Lois Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 31 30 30, www.chezgreg.fr

Brasserie Bordelaise: Always extremely busy, so try to get there early or book in advance. This is a great rendez-vous place for the wine trade, especially on a Thursday evening, that offers authentic food from the Sud Ouest. 50 rue Saint Remi Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 87 11 91, www.brasseriebordelaise.fr

Le Petit Commerce: Fish restaurant in the back streets of old Bordeaux, filled to the gunnels with locals enjoying the daily menu scribbled on blackboards. This is an insider glimpse of real Bordeaux that stays open late. 22 Rue du Parlement Saint-Pierre Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 79 76 58, www.le-petit-commerce.info

Au Bonheur du Palais: Word has it that this is one of France�s best Chinese restaurants. 74 Rue Paul-Louis Lande, Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 94 38 63.

Pressoir d�Argent: Recent kudos for Chef Pascal Nibeaudeau, who heads this gastronomic restaurant in The Regent Grand Hotel facing the Grand Theatre, include a Michelin star and a gold medal from GaultMillau. There is a value for money two-course lunch menu at EUR34 and an intriguing wine list classified by price rather than appellation. 5 Cours de l'Intendance Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 30 43 04, www.pressoir-argent.com

Le Cochon Volant: (The Flying Pig) is next door to the March� des Capucins and is open from 6pm to 4am for those who want to end the night late or get to the market early. 22 Place des Capucins Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 59 10 00, www.bordeaux-restaurant-cochon-volant.com

Gabriel restaurant: A new restaurant in the Place de la Bourse. The ground floor houses a relaxing bar, the first floor, Le Bistrot and on the second floor is the restaurant of Michelin starred Fran�ois Adamski. All have wonderful views of the chic Place de la Bourse and the miroir d�eau. 10, Place de la Bourse Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 30 00 80, www.bordeaux-gabriel.fr

Le Caf� Du Port: Has fantastic views over the river, friendly service, good food and a very reasonable wine list. 1 Quai Deschamps Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 77 81 18, www.lecafeduport.com

La Robe: Is a restaurant with wines only made by women. 3, Quai Louis XVIII Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 69 04 80, www.la-robe.fr

For something completely different you can try 7eme Peche (7th Sin). This small, intimate restaurant specialising in �molecular gastronomy� is headed up by Jan Schiwattalla from Germany. (Closed on Tuesdays). 65 Cours de Verdun Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 06 42 16, www.7peche.fr

The Villa Tourny: Is THE trendy place to go on a Thursday night. 20 Allees du Tourny Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 44 60 48

Laurent Costes, the former head of the Relais Margaux and Pressoir d�Argent has taken over modern bistro Le Bateau Lavoir (The Laundry Boat). You can dine on the terrace overlooking the garden of this simple yet quality kitchen and there is also a gallery in which many local and international artists have already exhibited. 263, boulevard Godard Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 87 56 69, www.bateaulavoir.fr

Eating further afield Chef Michel Portos of the restaurant Saint-James (in Bouliac on the outskirts of the city) was recently awarded his second Michelin star, which will lure crowds curious to taste his fusion of North African, Asian, Mediterranean and local influences. 3 Place Camille Hostein, 33270 Bouliac Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 97 06 00, www.saintjames-bouliac.com

La Maison du Fleuve: Just 15 minutes outside of the city centre is a restaurant with one of the most idyllic settings in the region. The food is good but the setting is the real reason to go. And you could arrive by boat. 20 Chemin Seguin, Z.I. Port Neuf, 33360 Camblanes et Meynac Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 20 06 40, www.maison-du-fleuve.com

In a beautiful setting of vines on the outskirts of Pauillac, Ch�teau Cordeillan-Bages is an attractive 18th century mansion converted into a hotel and restaurant, a member of Relais & Ch�teaux. Jean Luc Rocha's cuisine makes every meal at Cordeillan-Bages an unforgettable experience. Ch�teau Cordeillan-Bages, Route des Ch�teaux, 33250 Pauillac Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 59 24 24, www.cordeillanbages.com

Philippe Etchebest�s cuisine at Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint Emilion is contemporary and focuses on using local products with influences from further afield. The chef is now offering light lunches on the terraces during the week (weather permitting). Place du Clocher, 33330 Saint Emilion Tel: +33 (0) 5 57 55 07 55, www.hostellerie-plaisance.com

Not forgetting the other Michelin stars outside of Bordeaux: Nicolas Masse�s restaurant at Les Sources de Caudalie, La Grand Vigne, www.sources- caudalie.com.

And Christophe Girardot at La Table de Montesquieu at Ch�teau M�jean has a Michelin star, cooking with fresh products from the property�s very own farm. Place St Jean d��tamps, 33650 La Br�de Tel: +33 (0) 5 56 78 52 91, www.latabledemontesquieu.fr

Shopping Bordeaux city is great for shopping, particularly for wine and some of the wonderful food specialities of the region:

Cheeses: Take a visit to the Jean d�Alos shop (nearby Baillardran) to try some of the best cheeses from the local region and further afield in France. By appointment it is possible to take a tour of the three cheese caves (different kinds of cheeses are stored in different temperature- controlled rooms to prevent mould contamination) and dine on cheese and wine beneath the shop. 6 Cours Portal, Tel: +33(0)5 56 51 04 08

Wine: There is a large selection of wine shops, including L�IntendantBordeaux Magnum, La Vinoth�que, Cousin & Compagnie and Max Bordeaux.

Canel�s: (Bordeaux equivalent of Madeleines) You will find these delicious treats all over the region. They are baked in a small copper mould called � canel� �, hence the name. They are eaten at any time of the day and there is much debate as to how to achieve the perfect canel�.

The Baillardran shop in the Place des Grands Hommes, makes particularly good ones and you can see them being made. They also have a shop at the airport � perfect for picking up last minute presents. 263, rue Juda�que, Bordeaux Tel : 33 (0)5 56 99 13 75, www.baillardran.com

Chocolate: There are several famous chocolate shops Cadiot Badie, 26 all�es de Tourny (www.cadiot-badie.com) Saunion, 56 Cours Georges Clemenceau (www.saunion.com) Margaux's Mademoiselle de Margaux, known for 'les �Sarments de Bordeaux' chocolate sticks, shaped like the region's signature vine cuttings, with buds of raspberry, coffee or mint. 1 route de l'Ile Vincent, 33460 Margaux +33 (0)5 57 88 39 90 (www.mademoiselledemargaux.com)

Maison Larnicol, is a chocolaterie/biscuiterie selling delicious macaroons next to The Regent Hotel with fabulous window displays showing chocolate works of art and upstairs there is Hotel Lulu, a vintage clothing shop. www.larnicol.com

The Bejottes kitchen shop on the corner of the Grands Hommes sells everything including canel� moulds. 1 place des Grands-Hommes. www.bejottes.fr

And if you walk along the Rue des Remparts you will find tea shops, olive oil shop (Oliviers et co) and M le Macaron. Next door is Rue Bouffard where you can have tea in the Mus�e des Arts Decoratifs.

Les Bouchons de Bordeaux: little almond petit fours and semi-crystallized grapes flavoured with the Fine Marc of Bordeaux in the shape of corks. Tel : 33(0)5 56 43 06 06

For a huge range of spices � as well as salts, condiments, dried fruit, syrups and herbs � head to the Dock des Epices spice shop, which recalls a time when flavourings arrived by boat from the Anitilles, East Indies, Africa and beyond � and were stored in airy, vaulted warehouses. Affable staff will help visitors choose just the right vanilla, olive oil, or indeed, curry mix. This shop also has the world�s largest collection of peppers. You can't miss the pepper-bright fa�ade at 20 Rue Saint James, 33000, Bordeaux. Tel: +33 (0)5 56 44 41 57, www.dockdesepices.com.

Le Comptoir Bordeaux (14 rue Duffour Dubergier) and L��picerie Bordelaise have recently opened in the old Bordeaux. These quality shops offer local products at prices affordable to all palates.

A little further afield, in Saint-Emilion you�ll find the famous macarons de St Emilion, a flatter and chewier macaroon. The most authentic are to be found at Blanchez, where the recipe has been handed down from generation to generation. Blanchez, Rue Gaudet, very near the Post Office.

Markets On the Waterfront there is a great market offering mainly food every Thursday and Sunday morning.

The March� des Capucins (www.marchedescapucins.fr) is the wholesale covered market where the chefs go to buy their ingredients. It is also open to the public every morning from 6am until 1pm.

There are numerous retail markets throughout the region � in Bordeaux itself there are many including Saint Michel on Monday and Saturday mornings.

There are wonderful farm and food markets in Cr�on on Wednesday and Saturday, and then Libourne on Friday, Sunday and Tuesday until 1pm (covered and open air).

Pret-A-Dinner � Bordeaux�s best spots for... For something extra special, it is possible to book (well in advance) some delightful culinary experiences at particular Bordeaux properties. Here is a pick of the exceptional gastronomic offerings that can be organised:

Properties with a chef: La Lagune - Haut M�doc (chateau-lalagune.com) Ph�lan S�gur - St-Est�phe (phelansegur.com) Haut-Bailly - Pessac L�ognan (chateau-haut-bailly.com)

Properties for picnics: Bellevue - St-Emilion (angelus.com) Franc Mayne - St-Emilion (chateaufrancmayne.com) Giscours - Margaux (chateau-giscours.com)

For food-matching: Ch�teau Guiraud pairs four vintages of Sauternes with spicy food (ch�teau-guiraud.com) www.bordeaux-tourisme.com | www.bordeaux.com | www.bordeaux-city.com

For further information please contact: Rosamund Barton rosamund@randr.co.uk or Natasha Claxon natasha@randr.co.uk Phone: 0207 384 1333

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